One of the original ‘Barolo Boys’ who revolutionised the Langhe in the 1980s and 90s. Roberto Voerzio is regarded by many as the ultimate ‘Modernista’ and yet when you spend time with Roberto, walking his vineyards and speaking about his winemaking philosophy you realise that the experimentation (particularly with new French barriques) in the early days came not from a place of dogma (for which the divide in Barolo became known) but instead from the restless intelligence of the man. Roberto was never satisfied with his lot – either the extreme poverty of northwest Italy during his childhood, or the mediocre Barolos of the time. Roberto always knew that the land in his beloved La Morra was as good as any in the great winemaking districts of Europe.
He visited the great domaines of Burgundy regularly to understand “why I was driving an old Fiat and they had Ferraris”
These days Roberto has settled on a ‘method’ which minimises new wood and favours large casks rather than small barriques; he has learnt that natural concentration is the key to creating the texture he desires and practices extreme crop-reduction techniques (including two ‘green harvests’). His exquisite grand cru Barolos are made in miniscule quantities and he often rejects whole cuvees if he doesn’t feel the quality is as it should be. Such perfection comes at a price but make no mistake, these are some of Italy’s greatest and most dramatic wines.